Kromski Polonaise Instructions
Kromski Polonaise Spinning Wheel Instructions
Kromski Polonaise Spinning Wheel Assembly Instructions
First, thanks for choosing the Kromski Polonaise spinning wheel.
We want your spinning experience to be enjoyable and the first
thing to do is to assemble the wheel correctly and with care so
that it works properly. These easy to follow Polonaise assembly
instructions will have you spinning in no time. We suggest you
read through these instructions completely before you begin as
this will resolve any questions you may have before they arise.
After your wheel is assembled we will offer a few words of
advice about adjusting it and maintenance.
Finishing
If you purchased an unfinished Kromski Polonaise wheel we suggest a finish of your
choosing. A good wood stain and surface finish will help prevent
a degree of staining from regular use and from the use of
lubricating oil. Finishing a wheel prior to assembly is probably
the best way to proceed. For a clear, natural look we suggest
Tung oil; otherwise, any quality stain and finish is acceptable.
Unboxing the Kromski Polonaise spinning wheel
The Polonaise spinning wheel was boxed in Poland and has
traveled some distance to get to you so the first thing to do is
to unbox the wheel, remove all the parts and check for any
problems that may be obvious. If you observe a problem, contact
your dealer.
We suggest that you remove all the small parts first, things
like legs, footman, bobbins and anything else that is loose in
the box. You may unwrap each item and place to the side. You may
have to pull the wheel and mother-of-all table out together, as
they are usually intertwined in the box. Finally, you should be
able to remove any remaining small items and the
treadle-leg-bench assembly.
Make sure all parts are unwrapped and set aside. Give yourself
some room to work away from the parts so you don’t step on
anything. Smaller parts are in plastic bags so you may want to
empty the bags and examine these items. Everything will go
together easily so don’t be concerned with the number of parts.
Please refer to the attached detailed drawings to help you
assemble your wheel. They will help you greatly.
Step 1
The first step is to attach the rear leg. The base of the leg
sits flat on the floor so you want to make sure you insert the
leg into the bench hole correctly. Mark the leg and table,
remove leg, apply wood glue to hole and reinsert leg, making
sure to match the two marks you made. Make sure the leg is
“driven home” so it sits well into the hole. Please do not glue
the leg if you believe something has happened to these parts
during shipment.
Place the assembled parts on a very flat surface to make sure
the rear leg sits flat on the surface.
Step 2
Attach the mother-of-all table (this is the small table that is
at the left side of the wheel) to the bench using the barrel
nuts and bolts set (this consists of a hex-head bolt, a barrel
nut (metal cylinder with threaded hole), a silver washer and a
gold centering washer). The two holes on the end of the table
will face towards the wheel. Put a barrel nut into each of the
predrilled holes in the two table legs (note that the nuts have
a slot for a screwdriver; this should face out) and insert a hex
bolt with a washer and center washer up through the base of the
bench into the table legs. If you find two of the four bolts in
the parts bag to be shorter, use them at this location. Use a
screwdriver to line up the barrel nut with the bolt, as needed.
Using the supplied 4 mm Allen wrench, snug the two bolts even
and tight.
Step 3
Find the two wheel posts (these are the largest pieces of wood
from all the parts) and two long threaded wheel adjusting screws
(about 17" long). Refer to the parts pictures as needed.
Carefully screw an adjusting screw into each post, ensuring that
the predrilled hole near the bottom of the post (a hole you will
use for another barrel nut) is on the same side as the adjusting
screw. Again, refer to picture as needed.
Turn in the adjusting screw enough so that you can place the
wheel posts into the bench and the adjusting screws can be lined
up with the hole at the end of the mother-of-all table. Using
the two remaining hex-head bolts, barrel nut, washer and center
guide, attach the two posts to the bench by inserting the bolt
assemblies up from the bottom of the bench into the post and
through the barrel nut. Snug but do not tighten bolts yet; the
post must be able to rotate a bit so you can do the next
procedure.
Rotate the posts so you can line up and then back the adjusting
screws into the holes at the end of the mother-of-all table. Do
not put any pressure on the adjusting screw at this time since
only one end is now supported. Continue to back in the adjusting
screws until you can look down through the peg hole on the top
of the table and see the peg groove on the adjusting screws. At
this point you should insert a locking peg into each hole,
securing the adjusting screws to the table but allowing them to
rotate. DO NOT ROTATE THESE SCREWS after pegging. They must stay
in a “neutral” position for the time being.
Now the wheel posts are properly aligned with the table and
adjusting screws. Tighten the two hex bolts that hold the wheel
posts so the posts are as rigid as can be.
Step 4
Now you will assemble the mother-of-all base (this refers to the
structure that supports the flyer and bobbin above the table).
Locate the following: a threaded tension adjusting screw (about
12"), mother-of-all base with a flat plate attached by two
screws, tension guide screw (an “eye” bolt), and a threaded,
round locking nut.
Insert the tension adjusting screw through the hole at the end
of the mother-of-all table. Screw through the tension guide
screw (with the threaded end pointed up) so that the peg notch
on the adjusting screw can be lined up with the locking peg hole
at the far left of the table. Insert a locking peg to secure the
adjusting screw.
Place the mother-of-all base over the wooden I-bolt so that the
pegs on the bottom plate face down and U-cutout is to the left.
Secure loosely with the round wooden lock nut.
Attach the front and rear maidens (maiden with round leather
bearing hole closest to the spinner). The rear maiden should fit
firmly but be able to rotate if given a twist (your preference
may be to glue the rear maiden so it does not rotate). The front
maiden is secured with a diamond shaped wood nut. No need to
attach the flyer at this time.
If you like, you can first set the leather bearings of the two
maidens in a cup of oil and allow it to wick up into the entire
leather. (If you will be finishing the wheel make sure to finish
first, then oil the leather bearings)
Step 5
Pre-position the drive band by making a double loop. Drop the
loop over the front wheel post. This will allow you to fix the
band around the wheel in just a moment.
The wheel on the Polonaise spinning wheel is supported and
rotates on two metal pins that are imbedded into the ends of two
threaded crank thumb screws. Begin by attaching these two thumb
screws from the outside of the wheel support posts. Screw in
until about .25" of the screw comes through to the inside of the
post.
Place the footman (long, flat piece of wood) on the metal wheel
crank by working it into position using the large hole area on
the footman. Once it is in position on the crank pull it down so
the small end sits on the crank. In your parts bag are two small
wooden pins. The longer pin is used to secure the footman
tightly to the crank by inserting it through the two predrilled
holes on the footman you see near the crank.
You will now hang the wheel. Bring the wheel and footman in
between the two wheel posts. Drop the bottom end of the footman
through the hole in the wheel bench. Bring the hub of the wheel
into position so that the metal cups on each side of the
crank/hub line up with the pointed ends of the thumb screws
coming through the posts. Holding the wheel with one hand,
advance the thumb screws equally so that the metal pins nest
into the metal cups on the crank. The wheel is properly
supported when you can visually detect a slight deflection of
the two wheel posts. If you can push from the outside in, on
both thumb screws, and do not feel movement, you are probably
set right. If in doubt, err on the side of more tension and a
tighter fit. These bearing points are machined to nest nicely so
more tension is not a problem.
Attach the footman to the treadle using the leather strap from
the parts bag. There are three holes at the back end of the
treadle. You can use any of these in any combination to make
your tie (normally start with the front one). When done, you
want to make sure the footman does not come into contact with
the bench hole as the wheel makes its rotation. It is a good
idea to first wax the strap with a candle or paraffin to reduce
noise caused by flexing during spinning.
Lace the leather strap through the hole on the bottom of the
footman. Bring the two ends together and push down through the
front hole on the treadle. Bring the footman down tight with the
treadle and rotate the wheel one revolution, observing if the
footman touches the bench. If it does not touch, separate the
two ends of the leather strap and bring an end up through the
remaining two holes on the treadle. You want no slack in the
connection between footman and treadle so draw the ends tight
and tie off. If your footman touches the bench start with
another hole on the treadle, or try this: If further adjustments
are needed to prevent the footman from touching the bench during
a full rotation of the wheel, you can move the wheel towards the
front or towards the back by adjusting both thumb screws one way
or the other, which will have the effect of moving the footman
away from the bench.
Step 6
Now there are some small jobs to complete before you spin. You
can now attach the fancy wheel post caps to the top of the two
wheel posts. Do not glue.
The Polonaise spinning wheel comes with two whorls. Assemble the
flyer with a bobbin and a whorl. WARNING: AS WITH MOST DOUBLE
DRIVE WHEELS, THE WHORLS AND SPINDLE SHAFT ARE REVERSE THREADED.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ATTACH THE WHORL IN THE WRONG DIRECTION. GOING
ON, TURN IN A COUNTERCLOCKWISE DIRECTION. CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE.
DON’T LET CHILDREN PLAY WITH THIS.
For anyone new to double drive spinning, note that there are two
different size pulleys on the bobbin. Depending on the size of
the whorl you are using, always make sure that the bobbin pulley
being used is smaller than the whorl groove you are using.
On the metal spindle you will find a small brass spacer at the
base of the spindle. It is important that this remain on the
shaft all the time. If it is not on the shaft check the parts
bag.
Bring the drive band up and place over and around the wheel. Now
move the mother-of-all towards the wheel by turning the tension
adjusting screw accordingly. Holding the flyer, lay one strand
of the drive band over a groove on the whorl and the other over
the pulley of the bobbin and mount the flyer on the leather
bearings, adjusting the front maiden to get a proper fit.
Tighten the front maiden into position. There is some play here
and you can adjust to your liking. The flyer should float a bit,
front to back. Rotate the rear maiden so that the two leather
bearings are basically parallel. If you stand above the flyer,
you can do this very quickly and you may not need to rotate the
rear maiden again. Using the tension adjusting screw, move the
mother-of-all to the left until you have proper tension on the
drive band.
Find the remaining short wooden pin and insert it into the
predrilled hole on the top back of the bench (use a drop of wood
glue if you like). You will use this to secure your extra
whorls. The threading hook goes into the hole on the bench. Bend
the wire on the hook to suit your needs.
Scotch Tension
The Polonaise spinning wheel uses three thumb pegs to implement
the scotch tension setup. (If you do not intend to use Scotch
tension you may skip this section.) Two pegs have metal eye
bolts on them, one has a hole in its shaft. This last thumb peg
goes in the hole on the mother-of-all base which is closest to
the spinner. Insert the other thumb screws into their holes on
the base of the mother-of-all, eye bolts up.
The brake band for scotch tension is in the parts bag with a
spring attached. Attach the spring to the eye bolt on the far
left peg. Loop the string over the bobbin pulley, down to the
next tension peg, thread through the eye then forward to the
thumb peg. Secure by tying the string through the hole in the
peg with enough slack to allow you to wind the string around the
peg as you apply brake to the bobbin. If you are not using the
brake (when in double drive operation), drape the band under the
flyer.
Tensioned lazy kate - Screw two eye screws into the predrilled
holes on the base. Insert the ends of the short piece (handle)
into the predrilled holes at the top of the two long posts. Now
press the bottom of the two longer posts into the base ensuring
that the small hole in the handle is at the same end as the two
eye screws. Glue base if you want to make a secure, permanent
unit. Attach the Lazy Kate brake band by hooking the spring to
the eyebolt closest to the corner of the lazy kate base. Thread
the band through the other eyebolt and tie off the end of the
band through the hole on the horizontal handle. You exert
tension on the bobbins by rotating the handle, winding the band
around the handle. When using the tension option, make a “S”
curve with the band around the pulleys on the bobbins; increase
the braking action by turning the handle.
Wheel adjustment
The Kromski Polonaise is very true to the style of wheel that
originated in the Baltic and Scandinavian area of Europe. It is
the only wheel we know of that holds to this design style. Today
this style is typically called Norwegian. In this design, the
crank and the footman are located inside the two wheel posts and
the wheel rotates using “pin and cup” bearings. Because the
wheel “floats” on these pins and because the wheel adjusting
screws actually work (meaning you can turn them and something
happens) the drive wheel can be displaced laterally. In an ideal
spinning scenario, you want the wheel to always line up with the
whorl and bobbin so that the drive band tracks well around the
wheel and over the whorls. You adjust this tracking (we call it
aiming) by turning the two wheel adjusting screws simultaneously
but in opposite directions. Always rotate both screws the same
amount and never one at a time.
Start the aiming process by first adjusting the mother-of-all to
get proper tension on the drive band. Loosen the nut on top of
the mother-of-all base; use the tension adjusting screw to the
left of the mother-of-all to move the mother-of-all left or
right to get the proper tension on the drive band. With
experience you will learn what is best. Snug the nut down again;
it need not be real tight.
The best way to “aim” the wheel is to stand looking at the wheel
from the wheel end. Eyeball a straight line from the middle of
the wheel to the gap between the bobbin and the whorl. You can
do this with or without the drive band being on. If you need to
“aim” the wheel more to your right, take hold of both wheel
adjusting screws and rotate both of them out, or away, from the
wheel. If you need to “aim” the wheel to the left, take hold of
both wheel adjustment screws and rotate both in towards the
wheel. You will see the wheel move on its axis in the direction
you want. Once this adjustment is made you will not need to do
this step again until you change whorl size, if then. Remember,
always adjust the screws simultaneously, in opposite directions
and in equal increments.
As with any new wheel, there will be a break-in period, not only
for the wheel but for the spinner to get accustomed to the feel
and adjustments that need to be made during spinning. Follow the
lubrication suggestions below and then treadle for a while
without spinning. New bobbins on new flyers sometimes can be
sluggish. Make sure there is nothing on the shaft that will
impede easy rotation of the bobbin. Make sure the
treadle/footman connection is secure. Make sure the footman does
not touch the bench (or make adjustments as noted above). Find
the “sweet spot” on the treadle that will allow you to start the
wheel from nearly any position without the use of your hand.
This requires that your foot be well up on the treadle, but
still in a comfortable position.
Maintenance
All spinning wheels have points that require lubrication. On the
Polonaise you need to regularly oil the following points:
Treadle ends where they enter the front legs
Leather bearings that support the flyer
Metal spindle shaft at both ends where the bobbin bearings ride
The footman/crank point
The two metal pin/cup bearings points on the wheel hub
Your Kromski Polonaise Spinning Wheel comes with a handy needle nose
oiling bottle. It is ideal for all these locations. We recommend
that all these points be oiled when you begin spinning for the
day and you may want to oil the pin/cup bearing more often.
One other step you may care to do is waxing the wooden screw
threads on the tension adjusting screw. To do this, remove the
peg on the adjusting screw and back the screw out. Using a
candle or a bar of paraffin (never soap), work the wax onto the
threads from one end to the other. Reassemble and you should
notice easier movement. You could also remove the other threaded
parts on the mother-of-all and wax them as well. Do this after
finishing the wood. (Because the wheel adjusting screws move so
little as you “aim” the wheel we do not think it is necessary to
wax these; but you may.)
Enjoy your Kromski Spinning Wheel!
